Gravel for driveways – which gravel and stones are best?

A driveway is put under far more strain than a garden path. Cars turn, brake and park in the same spot, so the material must:

• Stay firm, so wheels do not dig ruts and holes.
• Drain well, so puddles do not form.
• Be easy to maintain, so you can rake and top up as needed.

The most important rule is that crushed materials stay put better than round stones. Crushed grains have sharp edges that lock together, while round stones roll under the wheels.

Road gravel 0-16 mm is a crushed material that packs well and forms a firm surface. It is the classic choice for gravel roads and driveways and is also ideal for filling potholes in an existing gravel road.

For a slightly finer and lighter surface, you can choose Noble Gravel or Clay Road Gravel, where the clay binds the gravel together particularly well.

Layer depth: 3-5 cm top layer on a compacted sub-base.

Granite chippings are crushed granite stones with sharp edges. They lock together and give a firm surface with an exclusive look. Chippings come in many colours – from grey and black to red – so you can match the style of the house. Read more in our guide to granite chippings.

Layer depth: 4-5 cm of chippings in the 8-11 mm or 11-16 mm size.

Many people want the soft crunch and calm look of round stones. It is perfectly possible, but there are a few things to be aware of:

• Pebbles 4-8 mm and pebbles 8-16 mm are round and move more than crushed materials. Wheel tracks can form, especially where the car turns.
• Lay a thin layer of 3-4 cm. A thick layer of round stones becomes soft to drive and walk on.
• Expect to rake the surface level and top up a little more often than with chippings and road gravel.

Avoid large pebbles and cobbles in the driving area itself. They are too loose for cars, but look great in beds and along the edges. See more in our guide to garden stones.

Crushed concrete 0-32 mm is recycled concrete that has been crushed and graded. It packs very firmly and is an affordable and sustainable choice – both as a sub-base under the gravel and as a surface on gravel roads, parking areas and rural driveways where appearance matters less.

1. Dig out: Remove grass and topsoil to a depth of approx. 25-30 cm. The softer the ground, the deeper you need to dig.
2. Fit edging: Edging of e.g. kerb stones, cobbles or steel keeps the gravel in place and gives crisp lines.
3. Lay weed barrier or geotextile: A weed barrier at the bottom separates the sub-base from the soil and keeps weeds down.
4. Lay the sub-base: Spread 15-20 cm of road base or crushed concrete, and compact it with a plate compactor in layers of no more than 10 cm at a time.
5. Create a fall: Give the driveway a slight fall of approx. 2 % away from the house so rainwater runs off.
6. Lay the top layer: Spread 3-5 cm of road gravel, chippings or stones evenly with a rake. Road gravel is watered and compacted at the end.

If you would rather have paving on the driveway, read our guide How to Prepare the Base for Paving.

Multiply the area by the layer depth in metres. For example, a driveway of 6 × 5 metres (30 m²) needs:

• Sub-base: 30 m² × 0.18 m = 5.4 m³ of road base – plus 10-20 % extra, as it is compressed
• Top layer: 30 m² × 0.04 m = 1.2 m³ = 1,200 litres of gravel or stones

See more examples in our guide How much gravel, sand and soil do I need?, or use our quantity calculator.

• Rake regularly: Rake the gravel level, especially where cars turn and park.
• Fill potholes straight away: Small holes quickly become big when cars drive over them. Fill with road gravel, water and compact.
• Top up the surface: Expect to top up with a thin layer every 2-3 years.
• Remove weeds: Weeds are easiest to remove while small – e.g. with a hoe or weed burner.

We deliver gravel and stones in bulk bags directly to your driveway – read more about delivery.