How to plant fruit trees and fruit bushes

The best time depends on how the tree is supplied:

• Bare-root plants are planted in the dormant period from October to April, when the ground is not frozen. Autumn is ideal, because the soil is still warm and the roots have time to establish before spring.
• Container-grown plants can be planted almost all year round, as long as the ground is not frozen. Avoid the hottest and driest periods of summer, however.

• Sun: Fruit trees and berry bushes need at least 6 hours of sun a day to produce good, sweet fruit.
• Shelter and drainage: Choose a sheltered spot where water does not stand in winter. Fruit trees do not like wet feet.
• Pollination: Many apple, pear and sweet cherry trees need a pollinator variety nearby to set fruit. Ask at the nursery which varieties go together – or choose a self-fertile variety.
• Size: The rootstock determines how large the tree becomes. For a small garden you can choose a tree on a dwarfing rootstock.

1. Dig a large hole: The planting hole should be approx. twice as wide as the root ball and 40-50 cm deep.
2. Loosen the bottom: Loosen the bottom of the hole with a fork so the roots can easily grow down.
3. Mix the soil: Mix the excavated soil with new plant soil or soil conditioner. This gives the roots a good start with nutrients and a loose structure.
4. Plant at the right height: Position the tree so that the graft union – the small swelling at the base of the trunk – sits 5-10 cm above ground level.
5. Backfill and firm in: Fill the hole with the soil mixture and gently firm the soil around the tree so there are no air pockets around the roots.

A newly planted fruit tree should be staked so the roots can establish undisturbed. Drive a stake into the planting hole before you backfill, so you do not damage the roots. Place the stake on the side the wind usually comes from – in Denmark most often west or south-west – so the tree blows away from the stake.

Tie the trunk to the stake with a soft tree tie in a figure of eight, so the trunk does not rub against the stake. Loosen the tie as needed so it does not cut into the trunk as the tree grows.

Water thoroughly once the tree or bush has been planted – ideally 10-20 litres for a fruit tree. Keep the soil moist during the first year, and water extra in dry spells. This is especially important in the first spring and summer, when the roots are not yet very large.

A layer of bark mulch around the tree retains moisture and suppresses weeds. Leave a few centimetres clear around the trunk itself so the bark does not lie against it.

• Blackcurrants: Plant 5-10 cm deeper than they stood in the pot. This makes the bush send up new shoots from the base.
• Redcurrants and gooseberries: Plant at the same height as they stood in the pot. Space the bushes approx. 1-1.5 metres apart.
• Raspberries: Plant in rows with 40-50 cm between plants and against a trellis or wire system.
• Blueberries: Need an acidic, humus-rich soil. Plant them in rhododendron peat so they get the low pH value they thrive in.

Pruning gives a strong, well-shaped tree that crops well. Apple and pear trees are pruned in the winter months, typically in February-March, before the buds break. Cherry and plum trees, on the other hand, should be pruned in summer after harvest, as this reduces the risk of the fungal disease silver leaf.

If you want to know more about a particular fruit variety, you can find more advice in our plant encyclopedia.